THE ART OF THE GOODYEAR AND BLAKE WELT

THE ORIGINAL GOODYEAR WELT

For more than 300 years, the Goodyear Welting process has been associated with excellence and superior workmanship. More than 60 craftsmen are involved in the process of manufacturing one of our Goodyear shoes, and they use between 25 and 50 different elements and pieces. All this involves a process with more than 120 handcrafted phases, from beginning to end.

SHOE CONSTRUCTION METHODS

There are three basic methods of shoe construction: cementing, blake welting, and goodyear welting.  We use both, Blake and Original Goodyear production methods. Each of them has its advantages, and defines how the sole is attached to the upper. Goodyear welting is the oldest, most labor intensive, and most durable of the three methods of construction.

SIGN OF SUPERIOR QUALITY

In 1872 Charles Goodyear invented a machine capable of stitching the welt to the insole, thus revolutionizing the quality of footwear worldwide. Due to its longstanding heritage, little needed maintenance, waterproof durability and clean aesthetic, Goodyear method is highly valued in the high-end shoe market.

HANDCRAFTED TRADITION.

The first part of the process is preparing the insole for stitching. This is done by creating a perpendicular “rib” that runs across the insole. The second step is to last the shoe. This is done by stretching the outsole over the last and attaching it, along with the insole, to the last. Part three is the actual welting. At this point shoe-specific thread is sewn through the welt, the upper, and the insole rib. Through a separate stitch, the welt is attached to the outsole.

 

 

THE BLAKE STITCH WELT CONSTRUCTION

On shoes constructed with Blake welting, the upper component of the shoe is stretched around the insole, and then a single stitch binds the outsole, insole, and upper together. Because the welt is stitched within the interior of the shoe, Blake welting requires a specialized machine to stitch the sole to the upper.

 

 

Welt stitching is a hallmark of exceptional shoe construction. Shoes of inferior quality tend to use adhesives rather than welt stitching – making the shoe nearly impossible to re-sole and more susceptible to water intrusion.

By virtue of our shoes’ Goodyear and Blake construction, we’re able to provide our customers a comfortable, sturdy, and elegant shoe.

 

HOW TO CHOOSE BETWEEN GOODYEAR AND BLAKE WELT

Select from the collection panel to the left of our customization platform. The Men's Dress and Patina Workshop collections are all made using the Blake Welt construction.  All Goodyear Welt and Patina Goodyear Welt are made using the Goodyear Welt construction.